I always dreamed of venturing to New Haven, Connecticut, one day to indulge in what many consider the world’s pizza capital. New Haven boasts a rich pizza history, with the narrow Wooster Street roadway housing two indelible icons — Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana and Sally’s Apizza. They both opened in the late 19th century, gradually building a storied legacy thanks to their authentic brick oven pizza preparations.
You could say Frank Pepe and Sally’s Apizza stand as a great sports rivalry — a dynamic where everyone proudly roots for their favorite pizza team and fervently supports them against the competition. I had to see what side I stood on as a diehard pizza fanatic.
I am not a pro at arranging a New Haven tourist trip, but I felt I assembled a decent itinerary. I would schedule to-go orders for both locations, one in the early afternoon around noon or 1 p.m. and one before the dinner rush at 4 p.m. Finding parking to pick up these orders is an impossible task, so I forced co-pilot and Reminder Publishing Staff Writer Ryan Feyre to scurry out of my car while driving in circles. No one died or got a ticket, so I consider the plan successful.
In between the dining, we ventured to Sports Haven. Some cursory research showed me that Sports Haven is a bit of a local relic, recently saved from demolition by historical preventionists. The building is certainly a sight to see. It stands towering like a grand colosseum, an archaic palace where sports bettors file in to dream up their bet of the day.
I gamble sparingly, although being enveloped in Sports Haven’s lively atmosphere became a fascinating experience. I was living in a real-life “Sopranos” episode, a world where loudmouth caricatures passionately spout gambling jargon as they cheered on their picks. Every touchdown score generated juxtaposing waves of joy and despair from onlookers. It was a show that became more compelling to witness than the football onscreen.
To their credit, Sports Haven has rightfully earned its esteemed legacy. The endless array of televisions matched with cheap and generously prepared drinks makes it an ideal hangout spot for any sports fan.
Now, it’s time for the pizza showdown!
Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoleotena, 157 Wooster St., New Haven
At first glance, Frank Pepe’s portrays photogenic pizza beauty. The cheese glistens like a shining rhinestone without exuding excess grease. Then, there is the brick-oven dough. It displays a beautiful gradient of textures, with the char complimenting the aromatic sauce perfectly.
The taste is even better than the pizza’s appearance. There is a distinctive allure to the dough; one bite can convey an irresistible chew, while the next injects a rustic complexion thanks to the cooking preparation. Every ingredient, from the velvety cheese to the classic pizza toppings, feels fresh and homemade. Ryan and I had no struggles devouring a small pizza in mere minutes.
Sally’s Apizza, 237 Wooster St., New Haven
Similar to Frank Pepe’s, Sally’s commands a bustling presence on any weekend. Ravenous crowds lined up outside the humble eatery all day long. That passionate fandom is a powerful testament to Sally’s lasting mark in the pizza universe.
I preface all this to say that Sally’s delivered good, but not great, results on my pizza scorecard. The brick-oven approach delivers a flavorful punch, and the sauce-to-cheese ratio strikes an ideal balance. However, my issue with Sally’s Apizza comes with their sauce. It is a potent concoction of herbs and tomato, so much so that I struggled to eat more than one piece. The sweetness and richness became too much for me, even though I did enjoy my initial slices.
So there you have it, Frank Pepe’s wins my New Haven Pizza Champion crown … for now. I look forward to trying New Haven’s other iconic pizza joint, Modern Apizzia, in the near future!
