Food with a side of baklava.
Reminder Publishing photo by Tyler Lederer
WEST SPRINGFIELD — Shah’s Halal Food in West Springfield makes itself clear it’s from the streets of New York. As in, it says, “from the streets of New York” in embossed lettering by the counter.
The lettering is part of a mural showing the skyline of New York. It also has the intersection of Liberty Street and 121st Avenue in Queens, New York, where the Shah’s chain of restaurants started in 2005 as a simple food cart. “From the streets of New York” is scattered elsewhere on the walls, too, along with a slew of other decorative phrases.
There are New Englanders who turn up their nose at New York. They must not live in Greater Springfield. When I arrived at 7:30 p.m. on a Wednesday, the place was packed. People shuffled in and out. Half the tables were full. The distinctive ring indicating a new DoorDash order flooded the air.
Between the crowds; the bright colors; the variety of menu options; the hard-hitting flavors; and speakers blasting “Taylor Swift Radio,” some may find the restaurant overstimulating. It can also easily be described as vibrant.
Shah’s offerings can be described as “pan-Halal,” not tied to one specific Islamic country’s cuisine. At the counter, you can order a halal “platter” — protein over rice — or “gyro” — protein wrapped in a pita. Fish, falafel and kofta kebab are among the protein options. The process is like at Chipotle or Moe’s, where the employee slides your food down the counter, asking if you’d like a number of accompaniments.
The employee who made my platter was so helpful, he gave me an overview of the process, even when I said I’d eaten there before. Good on him.
Also available are “salads” — protein over vegetables — and sandwiches like cheeseburgers and cheesesteaks. Side dishes include chicken nuggets, wings, baklava, pita bread and pakora chips.
I got a lamb platter with peppers and onions, cucumber and tomato salad, hummus, chickpeas, and three sauces: white, red and green. The red hot sauce and the green cilantro sauce are the spiciest ones. The white one, which can be bought by the squeeze bottle, has soybean oil, water, whole egg and distilled vinegar as its first listed ingredients.
I “Shah’s-ed it up,” netting me a side of french fries and a can of soda. For dessert, I got a side order of baklava. The total cost came to $20.69.
It’s hard to describe how Shah’s food tastes without describing the sheer number of ways it hits you with its heat. Sometimes, it burns your tongue. Sometimes, it’s a dullness on the lips. Sometimes, it’s a tingling around your mouth. I got a spoonful stuck in the back of my throat and I immediately felt the heat in that exact spot.
That is not a criticism. The experience was delightful, especially when combined with all the other good things about the food — the lusciousness of the sauces, the juiciness of the lamb, the crunchiness of the peppers and onions, and the softness of the chickpeas and rice.
I also enjoyed the thick-cut french fries and sweet baklava palette cleanser, too. The dessert was just the right size for a side order, and was light enough to complement the heavy meal. I left feeling full and satisfied, ready to take a nap, even.
Shah’s opened at 44 Park St., West Springfield in September. Previously, the closest locations were in the Boston, Albany and Hartford metropolitan areas. I welcome the chain into Western Massachusetts, and I hope they stick around for a while. I will definitely be back soon.
