This month we’re showcasing California merlot for the anniversary of that 2004 wine country film, “Sideways.” The film, starring Paul Giamatti as a recently divorced wine nerd, follows two men on a bachelor’s party trip to Santa Barbara wine country where comedy ensues. American wine was changed forever halfway through the film when the protagonist throws a temper tantrum when his companions order a bottle of merlot for the table during dinner. The expletive ridden tirade against the classic grape variety is unfit for print in this publication, but suffice to say that Giamatti’s strong reaction managed to convince the American public to leave poor merlot behind. Merlot sales volume and grape prices fell suddenly while pinot noir, the film’s clear favorite, rose by 16%. Twenty years later, we say it’s time to give this classic variety another chance!
The merlot grape first came to prominence in France’s Bordeux wine region where it accounts for the majority of red grapes on the region’s “Right Bank,” the eastern side of the Gironde River. Merlot was prized here for its early ripening ability and soft, approachable flavor profile which made it perfect to blend with high tannin grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon. From here it spread throughout Europe and then to the United States where it became a staple of California’s wine industry. Today it is the second most widely planted grape variety and the single most planted grape in all of France.
The two merlots we’re covering today both come from the central Californian region of Paso Robles. Initially viewed as a source for cheap, bulk grapes, Paso Robles has grown into a wine region worth taking seriously. Famous for baking heat and a long growing season, the region actually experiences temperature swings of as much as 50 degrees between the sun-soaked daytime and the foggy nights when the local valleys draw cool air in from the ocean. This temperature shift helps ripen the fruit during the day and preserves the acidity at night. These factors combine with the comparatively cheap land prices in Paso Robles to make it a really exciting up and coming region that has some truly great wines at great prices.
Broadside Santa Margarita Ranch Merlot ($16.99): Broadside is a collaboration between Broc Cellars’ Chris Brockway and Brian Terrizzi of Giornata with the goal of making affordable, sustainably farmed wines with bright acidity in Paso Robles. The wine is medium bodied with supple tannins and a present, but not overbearing acidity. Lots of soft notes of plum, cola and rhubarb with a touch of herbal character. This wine is truly an outstanding value.
Midnight Cellars Estate Merlot ($22.99): Founded by Rich Hartenberger in 1995, Midnight Cellars has become one of our favorite under the radar domestic wineries. Rich has a strong grounding in classical winemaking, and his wines embrace the ripeness and heat of Paso Robles without losing a sense of balance. Their estate merlot has velvety tannin and ripe red fruit on the palate with notes of raspberry, tobacco, cooking spice and plum on the nose.
